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11/02/2024 10:23:29 am

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The 'Michelin Curse' Has Landed on Hong Kong Restaurants

A sample of the Michelin Guide Published in 2009

(Photo : Getty Images) There may be unexpected challenges that come with the honorable distinction of being named in the Michelin Guide for restaurateurs.

One of the sought-after honours in the restaurant business is the recognition given by Michelin guide. However, there may be unexpected challenges that go with the honourable distinction. As BBC reports, restaurants in Hong Kong are facing thos challenge after being featured in Michelin's guide in November last year.

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Chiu Wai Yip, 58, says his landlord more than doubled his rent from HK$100,000 to HK$220,000 a month upon knowing that Kai Kai Dessert has been featured in the guide. Worse, the landlord wanted to reduce the size of the rented space into half.

Chiu expressed his dismay over the owner's decision to raise the rent enormously. As a result, he was forced to relocate with the restaurant.

Kai Kai Dessert specializes in classic Cantonese desserts such as steamed papaya and white fungus soup, egg pudding and red bean soup with lotus seed. The family-owned business has been in operation for three decades. All throughout the day, even during the afternoon when it isn't a traditional time for dessert, all the seats are occupied in the eatery.

After hearing Chiu's dilemma, a regular customer offered to help the restaurant move around the corner, where the rent is just HK$90,000 per month.

Kai Kai Dessert is just one of the two dozen street food eateries in Hong Kong that were featured in the Michelin guide for the first time.

These restaurants often charge low prices for their authentic cuisine making them very vulnerable to what some call the "Michelin curse."

Another establishment, which offers Shanghai-style fried dumplings, is also suffering from this same situation. After being featured by Michelin, the landlord of the place that the restaurant is located vowed to increase the rent by 30 percent.

The eatery was opened three years ago in a working-class neighbourhood in Tsuen Wan. According to its owner, Sun Kei, Hong Kong is quickly losing its culinary street culture because of high rental costs.

Experts say Hong Kong has nearly doubled the rental costs since 1997 when it was handed back to China.

Sun is calling on the Hong Kong government to reinstate the rent control policy as food capital is slowly fading. He is sad that he had to move out from the neighbourhood that welcomed his business.

Being featured in the Michelin guide has its downside, Sun realizes. He now shares the same sentiments with Chiu.

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